Walking in the Golden Valley
The abundance of walks on Stroud’s doorstep are one of the town’s main attractions. Hillside ambles, woodland trails, valley tracks and canal-side paths; the options are so vast that locals find themselves rotating their walks depending on the mood, season and weather. Recently we went walking in the ‘Golden Valley’ of Sapperton…
If you have ever taken the train into Stroud from London you’ll be familiar with that magical moment the carriage bursts out of the tunnel after the flat fields of Swindon and into the steep wooded valleys of Stroud. The valley you emerge into was nicknamed ‘The Golden Valley’ by Queen Victoria as at particular times of the day the sun crowns the hilltops in gold. Glimpsing the hillsides through the trees evokes a wave of nostalgia for Stroud so powerful it can bring a tear to the eye of anyone who grew up here (and have visitors searching house prices in the area in the hopes of relocating immediately).
We set out on foot to explore the valley we have loved for so long through the train windows.
After winding down the steep hill to the bottom of the valley we enter into Siccaridge Wood. This ancient coppiced woodland is home to many species of trees including hazel, silver birch and even some maple. There is the distinct lack of a main road running through the Golden Valley, so the sounds of fast moving traffic are blissfully absent. You are left with birdsong, the rustle of leaves and, every so often, the romantic sound of a train horn as it passes through.
We chose a somewhat humid late summer afternoon for our walk. Flies hang lazily in the sticky air and the bright green beech leaves create a cocoon of dappled light all around us. Walking along the centre of the valley we glimpse ruins of the old Thames canal with its 18th century brickwork through the thicket.
The canal was built in the 1700s to help transport coal and other materials to the Stroud Valleys which were an important industrial centre of wool cloth manufacture. The mill buildings and canal went out of use as new train lines were built and textile production styles developed dramatically at the turn of the century. By 1940 the canal was all but redundant and for the years that followed it was left to be reclaimed by nature. It offers a fascinating reminder of how industrial (and technological) change can shape the landscapes we inhabit alongside the natural environment. Today the canal is being regenerated for leisure. If you are interested in learning more we recommend having a look at Stroudwater History.
We finished our walk with lunch at The Bell at Sapperton - it’s a quintessential Cotswolds pub, cosy with a refined twist. We opted to for a ploughman’s lunch (it’s nice to test the posh pubs on their delivery of old school classics). The Bell at Sapperton delivered; all you want from a ploughman’s, plus chips triple-cooked to perfection and a great selection of local cheeses. Will be back for dinner soon.
How to get to the Golden Valley…
Depending on your preferred length of walk, there are different ways to reach the valley. You can walk all the way from Stroud to Sapperton along the canal, through Chalford. This takes you on a long walk - about 2/3 hour each way (although you can make it shorter if you park in Chalford or Brimscombe port). Following the canal from Stroud will take you past some of the very best watering holes in the area: Stroud Brewery and The Ship. We also highly recommend a slice of cake at Lavender bakehouse if you have a sweet tooth.
For a shorter walk, you need to drive out on the A419 towards Cirencester. Take a left just before Jolly Nice farm shop and follow the lane down towards the Daneway Pub where you can find spots to park next to Siccaridge Wood. There is a circular route through the woods (roughly 1.5 hour walk) from the Daneway Pub.
Words and Images by Katie
